How to Build a Mitre Saw Stand

The mitre saw is one of the most-used tools in a woodworking shop. Its ability to cut different angles as well as cut lumber to length makes it a nearly mandatory power tool. One of its drawbacks, however, is that it is a large, heavy piece of equipment, making it difficult to lug around. Building a stand not only helps keep the saw at a good working height, but the extended sides of the stand help support long pieces such as molding.

Instructions

1

Measure the height from the bottom of the mitre saw to the top of its cutting table.

2

Use the mitre saw to cut two of the 2-by-4-inch boards into four legs 32 inches long. Use the remaining two 2-by-4-inch boards to cut four more legs, 32 inches long plus the height of the mitre saw cutting table, minus 3/4 inch. For example, if the height of mitre saw table is 3 inches, then the legs should be 34 1/4 inches long.

3




Table saw ripping a board

Use a circular saw or table saw to cut the 3/4-inch plywood for the saw stand's top. Make the top 3 inches wider and 6 inches longer then the bolt holes on the mitre saw.

4




Screws

Attach the table top to the 32-inch legs using the drill, Phillips-head bit and 1 5/8-inch screws. Be sure to flush the outside edges of the legs with the outside edge of the saw stand top, with the 2-inch side of the 2-by-4-inch leg facing out toward the front of the saw.

5




Measure the plywood.

Cut 12 plywood strips 4 inches wide with a circular saw or table saw. Four strips will be 8 feet long and eight will be the depth of the saw stand top.

6

Attach each piece of plywood to the legs with a minimum of three 1 5/8-inch screws per leg. Take two of the plywood strips cut for depth and start at the bottom edge of the saw stand top, two more will attach to these legs 8 inches from the bottom to stabilize the legs.

7

Mark the center of the table top and the center on two of the 8-foot strips. Line these marks up and attach the 8-foot strips to the legs, starting at the bottom edge of the table top.

8

Mark the four remaining legs at 32 inches and attach them to the ends of plywood strips so that the outside edge of the 2-inch side of the 2-by-4-inch leg is flush with the end of the plywood.

9

Attach the remaining two 8-foot strips 8 inches from the bottom of the legs starting from one of the outside legs and working across to the other outside leg.

10

Use 1 5/8-inch screws to attach the remaining strips of plywood to the outside edges of the exterior legs to lock the legs together.

11

Center the mitre saw on the saw stand top and make mark to show the placement of the bolt holes.

12

Remove the saw and drill holes at the marks using the drill and 3/8-inch drill bit. Be sure to slightly ream the holes to make sure they are clean.

13

Put the saw back on the table and feed carriage bolts through the holes from the underneath the table so the bolts' threads are showing above the bolt slots on the saw. This lets the carriage bolts dig into the plywood to secure the saw. Tighten the nuts and washers onto the bolts with a 9/16-inch wrench.

14

Rip two 2-by-4 inch scraps, using a circular or table saw, as long as the depth of the plywood table top and to a height 3/4 inch less then the height of the mitre saw table. For example, if the saw table is 3 inches, then the rip should be 2 1/4 inches.

15

Attach the ripped lumber to the saw stand top using 2 1/2-inch screws, drill and Phillips head bit, making sure to pull the wood down tightly and sinking the screw heads below the surface of the wood.

16

Rip two pieces of plywood the width of the fence on the mitre saw to the front of the table and two pieces that are 5 inches wide. Make the lengths of all four pieces the distance from the inside of the ripped 2-by-4 inch board to the outside edge of the exterior legs.

17

Attach the wider boards to the ripped 2-by-4-inch board and to the outside legs with 1 5/8-inch screws to form arms extending from the saw stand's top.

18

Attach the 5-inch ripped board perpendicular to the back of the arms with 1 5/8-inch screws. Keep the bottom edges flush as you work down the arms to form a fence.